Published 6 / 02 / 2020 Reading time: 4 min
In 2014, the 17-hectare Domaine des Ormes in Ouches was acquired by Marie-Pierre and Michel Troisgros; 2015, work begins. 2017... the time has come for the move and the opening of the new House, symbol of a family which, in addition to remaining a model of gastronomic excellence, continues to renew itself and write new pages of its history… Roanne first and foremost. We met Michel Troisgros a few days before the opening.
A few days before the opening of Maison Troisgros in Ouches (February 18), what state of mind are you in?
Michael Troisgros : Both joyful and concerned! Marie-Pierre and I are amazed by this place which takes shape every day before our eyes; but there is the share of concern: will we be without reproach at the opening? It is our desire to always do our best and that of our team, which is 100% the same as that of the house of Roanne. We form a single group, a community, all animated by a very good spirit. We have become used to working together and we have been preparing for this great adventure for a long time. Everyone was led to understand, support and take part in this project: today, we are ready to open our door, committed and enthusiastic to show a little dream.
Can you tell us about this new place?
Michael Troisgros : The property, on the plain, located 8 km from Roanne, in plain has three types of architectures. First the bodies of agricultural buildings, which became the entrance to the establishment. A very beautiful farmhouse is crossed right through with its incredible roof. Then, the bourgeois building, which looks like a Florentine villa. It houses the bar, as well as the 15 rooms. Marie-Pierre, my wife, designed them as guest rooms. Hotel standards are less meaningful, the comfort is very warm and elegant, the materials are noble. Between the two there is the leafless wood which is the dining room. It surrounds a large century-old oak tree.
The pillars that support the building are like the trees that extend
the surrounding undergrowth. We come and go like a child playing hide and seek. To add to the poetry of the place, the lighting is subtle, it evokes foliage that would be made of copper. It enhances the table and the dishes. The whole forms a marvelous space.
What is its biggest difference with the Roanne house?
Michael Troisgros : Everything is different, except us. We are leaving the city center, a “contained, limited” place with no other possibility than the existing one, to settle in the countryside, at the foot of the Roannaise coast. The House stands in the middle of meadows, woods and a large pond: it is an inspiring new universe.
The place changes, but what about the cuisine, does it bring new inspirations?
Michael Troisgros : Not yet. Anyway, evolution has always been in our nature… By setting up in the countryside, our cuisine will undoubtedly become more and more attentive to the plant world that surrounds it. Here we have space to sow, cultivate, observe, harvest, transform. A large orchard has already been established. César, our son, has already started fertilizing a plot of permaculture land. He is also committed to preserving local seeds that are in danger because they have been forgotten. This environment will offer him new possibilities, which we have never been able to explore until now.
What would you like your customers to say when they first come to Ouches?
Michael Troisgros : This move is a real bet: even if our cuisine will not change immediately, the experience will be different in every way. We are sure our customers will appreciate it and say “Wow, what a wonderful idea for the future! ".
