The Roannais is the cradle where his talent blossomed. A territory that Michel Troisgros knows by heart, that he loves passionately and that he simply tells us about.

Marie-Pierre et Michel Troisgros de la Maison Troisgros à Ouches dans le département de la Loire
Marie-Pierre and Michel Troisgros – © Marie-Pierre Morel

What flavors would you associate with Roannais?

Michael Troisgros: It depends on the season. I associate our territory with sorrel, tomato, rhubarb and gooseberry which are part of my family taste and which have in common a sweet acidity. In the same way, there are also pickle producers here and it is a tradition in the houses to make their pickles in vinegar. So the Roannais has a certain spiciness!

What is the most Roannais of your dishes?

Michael Troisgros: Without hesitation, Charolais beef since the appellation comes right to the gates of Roanne. We prepare the finest pieces pan-fried in butter, with a Gamay wine sauce and poached bone marrow.
I'm also thinking of our new snail dish: “Les Escargots Matisse”, a casserole of snails with herbs with turnips, beets, celery and a little ginger for the fancy.

What are your favorite places in Roanne?

Michael Troisgros: I am thinking in particular of the vineyards of the Côte Roannaise with its charming corners such as between Renaison and Saint-Haon-le-Chatel, these beautiful valleys planted with vines and also to the plain which extends between Roanne and Renaison with its magnificent pastures, its ponds, its woods. On this land, products from wild harvesting inspire our dishes: mushrooms as well as meadow rosé, mushrooms, porcini mushrooms, wild dandelions without forgetting game, everything contributes to the inspiration of the cook.

Recette "Ecrevisses à la nage folle" de Michel Troisgros de la Maison Troisgros à Ouches dans le département de la Loire

Could the Maison Troisgros exist elsewhere?

Michael Troisgros: Yes and no, I'm not sure. Our house and its history are rooted in the region. But the new generation does not lack ideas and resources, it travels and observes the world. In 2017, we will move to Ouches in this beautiful countryside of Roanne. I am convinced that our project will give the essential dimension to the future of the house. We plan to cultivate fruit trees and a vegetable garden. It will be a valuable asset for cooks and customers.

What is the latest news from Maison Troisgros?

Michael Troigros: Alongside this family project, this great adventure, we have created a new collection of three chocolates in collaboration with the chocolate maker Pralus. Another novelty of the year, accessible menus, aimed at young people under 35, were a great success.

The Maison Troisgros is above all based on a family history, how are the roles in the kitchen defined?

Michael Troisgros: Harmoniously. My son César is 28 years old, he is by my side, very invested in his role as chef, at the head of a brigade of 20 cooks, no less. He participates fully in the Ouches project with the reflection on the installation of the kitchen in particular. César also attends numerous events for the House, in France and abroad. What remains to me above all is creation, in which we are both very involved. And then wine purchases, our business in Japan and promotional events for our house. Marie-Pierre takes care of all the other services that make your stay unforgettable. She has an eye, an artistic eye for all the elements, big or small, she knows how to choose and arrange them. She likes to search, move, question herself and undertake…

César Troisgros de la Maison Troisgros à Ouches dans le département de la Loire 42
César Troisgros – © Jérôme Aubanel

Gabriel

Author

Gabriel

Curious and always in search of new sensations, I multiply the experiences. I like going out to meet the great people of Roannaise gastronomy as much as taking an interest in the heritage of the region.

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